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-   -   I'm sorta stumped..... (http://ratrodsrule.com/forum/showthread.php?t=37864)

bob w 09-22-2019 10:35 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Old Iron (Post 520436)
All the symptoms tell me you have a vacuum leak.
Intake manifold gaskets, carb base gaskets, a vacuum line unplugged, a bad vacuum modulator or something you're overlooking.

I agree.

kenny c 09-23-2019 05:27 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Old Iron (Post 520436)
All the symptoms tell me you have a vacuum leak.
Intake manifold gaskets, carb base gaskets, a vacuum line unplugged, a bad vacuum modulator or something you're overlooking.

Have you tried spraying a little carb cleaner around the intake area while running to see if the idle picks up or changes?

Bamamav 09-29-2019 02:19 PM

After spraying starting fluid all around the intake, carb, and blocking all vacuum ports, it looks like the carb spacer is not sealing. One spot when I spray it dies, does it every time. Going to get new gaskets or make some and try again.

Old Iron 09-29-2019 04:59 PM

If you have an adapter under the carb make sure it seal if not get a steel plate that goes between the adapter and the manifold.

Bamamav 09-29-2019 09:07 PM

No adapter, I have a stock fiber looking spacer about 3/8" thick, not even sure where it came from or why I used it. [S I've got another one, not quite as thick that looks unused, maybe it's the one that came with the carb, I dunno. May just use it with a gasket top and bottom.

I think I may have found my water leak on the passenger side, it's either the freeze plug in the end of the head has a pinhole in it, or the head gasket has went away on the corner. Alternator bracket covers the freeze plug, so I'm gonna try to get it running first before I tackle the leak....
cause if the trannys no good, it all has to come back out anyway.....:eek::(

Dr Crankenstein 09-29-2019 10:52 PM

I suggest you "true" the spacer before you replace the gaskets and reassemble. Chances are good, the spacer isn't dead flat on either mating surface, carb to spacer on the top, spacer to intake on the bottom.

Back when we were running a fuel funny car, our blower to manifold seal was a large perimeter o-ring. No gasket otherwise and the tolerance was small between manifold and blower, something like .009, however, spread over a much larger footprint than a four barrel carburetor...

Anyhow, out of necessity, we carried a low-tech hand operated surfacer. It was nothing more than a slab of machined aluminum plate with a pair of handles attached. Glued to the plate was a common sheet of 80 grit emery cloth. A little machinist's blue and a few strokes would tell. A few incidents proved the tool and method accurate, repeatable and good enough for 54 pounds of boost.


Dumb and memory challenged as I am, I somehow retained a few things from days gone by. I've "trued" a few surfaces using the lessons learned above... I've glued a sheet of emery cloth to my table saw's (machined flat) table and sanded the piece fore, aft, left, right, 45 left and 45 right until the rattle can paint disappeared. Low tech for sure, but flat as can be without visiting the machine shop...

.

Bamamav 09-30-2019 02:05 PM

Well, that was a waste of time. :mad: New carb gaskets, different spacer, torqued intake bolts again to be sure, same $hit.:mad::mad::mad: Did manage to take the choke off, but still won't idle below 2000 rpm. Retarded timing a bit, no help. The sob may sit there and run 30 minutes at 2000 rpm, then again it might shut off after one minute. Tried backing off the idle speed screw, as soon as it gets below 2000, it quits. Never had one fight me this bad.

Old Iron 10-01-2019 07:52 AM

Take a few pics of the engine and carb at different angles and post them so we can see what you've got.

Bamamav 10-01-2019 06:25 PM

OK, put my Rochester 2bbl on, getting the same results. Looking now toward the HEI. Is it even possible that it could work above 2000 rpm, but be dead below that? I thought they either worked or didn't? Could be the module bad I guess.....
May try my points distributor again. Can't be much worse.

Dr Crankenstein 10-01-2019 06:52 PM

I also wonder if that's possible... do you have a weak battery and the voltage is too low, until the alternator spins up and joins in? That would make some kind of sense, I suppose...

Grasping at straws... does the distributor body ground properly at the hold down clamp? Good motor to chassis ground? Are your mechanical advance weights stuck "open"?

.


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